![]() ![]() So instead of the spindle in the usual counter clock wise direction, you run them in the clockwise direction. Sometimes using LH (left hand turning direction) boring bars are very useful in removing inserts etc. I would avoid anything that is quick curing though. Again there are loads of different shock loading epoxies on the market. Epoxy resins are your best bet and best to choose one that can handle shock loading like what they use in golf clubs for example. There are just so many resins out there it is too hard to tell without destroying a shaft to find out. The downside is depending on the heat applied to remove the existing insert could already have had a negative effect on the carbon composite and it's resin. In my case, I take the drive motor off the head stock and attach the motor to the steady rest I made, that is why it has a belt groove on the back of the steady rest.Īll that a side, any shaft that has an insert can have the insert changed. The second secret is to have the distortion collet at the powered side, and have a free wheeling support in the back. Then the part is pushed into the collet like a morse taper sleeve on a drill bit. Not a split collet but a distortion collet. Just make a solid sleeve that is the same geometry as the part you are holding. Fishing rod companies do it all the time. Holding onto carbon/composite shaft is no real secret.I have not seen a revo shaft but do know how to make things from composite tube. Once installed, you could go to almost any thread desired. These pheno-plugs would seem to me to be ideal for filling the hole created when removing the insert. ![]() I am also suppied with a pheno-plug that is 2.125" in L, 12mm OD x 6mm ID. I am however, confident that careful and prudent machining for it's removal is certainly possible. That could/would create ample support for a collet to be used in holding the shaft in a lathe.Īgain, I'm not supporting the use of heat to remove an insert from a plastic shaft. The ones that I'm most familiar with have a buried length of 1.25". That the face of the shaft is a version of this phenolic plug. Since I routinely use Predator supplied phenolic plugs, I'm assuming, until proven otherwise, It's black while the shaft's body is gray. That face of the shaft is not the same carbon-fiber as the shaft. 875" length in the shaft is not hanging in a void. 125" is the exposed portion or 'pilot' if you will. The std length, the one that most are familiar with, is 1" long with. To the best of my knowledge, there are at least 2 different lengths of these inserts. The current run of Revo shafts utilize the Uni-QR insert. However, we can make assumptions of it's construction based on what we do know. Have you ever been inside or opened-up a Predator Revo shaft ? Nor have I. A forum allows for free and open discussion so let's go ahead and do that. ![]()
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